Edogawa Ranpo Museum, Toba, Mie Prefecture 江戸川乱歩館
A short walk from the oyster bars’ side of Toba Station is the quirky Ranpo Museum.
The museum is the preserved former residence of local artist and writer Junichi Iwata and displays manuscripts, letters and every day items from the lives of Iwata and his literary friend Edogawa Ranpo. Iwata drew illustrations for Edogawa Ranpo’s stories and the two shared the house for a while, when Ranpo was living and working in Toba.
Also on show are photographs dating back to 1936, many featuring the famous women divers (ama) of the area.
The subsequent fame of Edogawa Ranpo (1894-1965), aka Taro Hirai, far outweighs that of his associate Junichi Iwata, and it is the personal effects of the noted mystery writer, including his trademark beret and round glasses, on display at the museum, that attract most interest.
Ranpo was an admirer of western thrillers and mystery tales, especially those of Edgar Allan Poe. Among Ranpo’s best known works are: Phantom of the Universe, Phantom of the Circus and Vampire.
Ranpo and Junichi Iwata also collaborated on researching the hidden history of Japanese homosexuality – nanshoku. Indeed, Iwata published the book Honcho Nanshoku Ko on the subject.
Iwata (1900-46) died at a young age, only 45, in Tokyo. However, the museum is a fitting tribute to an energetic, young artist of the time.
Access – Getting There
Toba Minato Machi Bunka Kaikan
Toba 2-5-2
Tel: 0599 26 3745
www: rampomuseum.com
Hours: Wednesday to Sunday 10 am-4 pm
Admission: 500 Yen
Walk south from Toba Station past the entrance to the remains of Toba Castle, at the next signal bear right and the museum is on your right.
There are Kintetsu trains to Toba from Osaka and Nagoya (1 hour, 35 mins) and there are overnight highway buses from Ikebukuro via Kuwana and Tsu to Toba.
Eat & Drink
If you are visiting Toba in Mie Prefecture to see the Mikimoto Pearl Museum or the Aquarium, find time to drop in to one of the small oyster bars serving up fresh shellfish near Toba Station The shellfish are kept in water tanks at the front of the shops and you just need to point: abalone, clams, mussels, lobsters, oysters, periwinkles, scallops, sea urchins, sazae (turban shell), and whelks. One recommended diner is Mizunuma Sasaeten (水沼さざえ店).
Accommodation
See a listing of places to stay in Toba.